I LOVE LUSSO.

In the sea of New York restaurants Lusso is no big fish.  It’s a small corner joint, on a small block, in a (relatively) small neighborhood.  But that’s not to say it doesn’t stand out. Having just opened in January of 2009, Lusso jumped in to muddy waters, with constant whispers of economic doom.  However first time Owner Michael Carpinillo exhibited an intelligence in his choices that works superbly well.  Lusso has a lot of charm.  It has a unique selection of Italian microbrews, the most extensive in New York, and the food is sublime.  More so, it feels good.  At first I couldn’t quite put my finger it.  And then it hit me:  Lusso feels like New York. I’m not talking about rustic New York, or trendy New York, aged or nostalgic.  Lusso feels like present-day, 2009 New York.  Sigh.

I went to Lusso with my artist friend on a Thursday, just as evening hit.  We walked down Houston St. and turned south onto West Broadway, heading towards the Grand St. locale. Men wore cologne and ladies were in heels.  Leggy woman in tiny garb stood perched in front of restaurant after restaurant, projecting an air of SoHo elite.  The night was ablaze.

As we approached the warmly lit space we felt a sense of ease.  There is a comfort to Lusso that makes it a welcomed oasis from outside ‘scene.’  The color palette is reminiscent of the desert— warm.   It is streamlined yet relaxed, open (with large windows) yet intimate. Dark wooden tables compliment the exposed brick walls, and moderate the tone.  It is modern without making the mistake of advertising itself as so.  It just feels smart.

We were dressed plainly, with our ever-present bottomless appetites. The host was very pleasant and guided us to our table.  Seated, I glanced around at the other customers.  I could tell the crowd was upper-class but not showy.  What impressed me, and my friend even noticed this, was that most of the patrons looked spellbound.  They weren’t adrift in the social hoopla outside, but were entranced by one of other.  Actresses sat with agents but for once didn’t appear conspicuous.  An older man with the round-rimmed glasses was dining behind us with his underdressed model girlfriend (I assume).  Their dishes arrived and they stopped, both tasting them and looked pleased.  He offered her a taste, and then continued chatting.  It appeared intimate.

Our service was excellent and never missed a beat.  Now let me take a minute to tell you about the food:  For our first course we tried the crostini ($9) and seafood salad ($11).  The crostini, just grilled bread with chicken liver pate was pretty much perfection, smooth and flavorful.  The seafood salad, with marinated calamari and shrimp tasted fresh, not over seasoned.  To compliment it we opted for a beer.  The Baldin Nora ($25) tastes of rose and violets, with citrus undertones and is now my new favorite.  For a second course the gnocchi ($14) with pancetta, peas and hedgehog mushrooms was delicious, light and well balanced.  We also tried the lasagna ($14) with buckwheat pasta and ricotta, which was rich and delightfully smooth without being too heavy.  We liked it a lot.  For desert we indulged in the homemade zeppoles ($6) and the tiramisu for two ($13). 

Overall it’s been a while since I’ve had such a pleasant experience.  New York dining was beginning to feel reminisce.  When I recalled my experience to a friend, I summed it up like this:  Lusso felt like a date with an older man.  He’s experienced.  He knows what he likes.  He has good taste and it’s always a treat.